OSSO BUCO RAGÙ

Serves 4–6

2 lbs beef or veal shanks (2–3 shanks)
Salt and black pepper
3 tbsp olive oil
2 oz pancetta, diced
1 onion, finely diced
1 carrot, finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp tomato paste
1 cup dry red wine
1 can (28 oz) whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand
2 cups beef stock
2 sprigs rosemary
1 bay leaf
1 strip orange peel
1 lb pappardelle
2 tbsp butter
Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
Gremolata, for serving

Heat the oven to 325°F. Season the shanks well with salt and pepper.

In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Sear the shanks 4–5 minutes per side until deep brown. Set aside.

Lower heat to medium. Add pancetta and cook until the fat renders, about 4 minutes. Add onion, carrot, and celery. Cook until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and tomato paste and stir for 2 minutes.

Pour in the wine and scrape up the browned bits. Reduce by half. Add tomatoes, stock, rosemary, bay leaf, and orange peel.

Return the shanks to the pot. Bring to a simmer, cover, and move to the oven. Braise 3 hours, until the meat falls off the bone.

Remove the shanks. Pull the meat and shred it with two forks. Scoop the marrow out of the bones and stir it into the sauce. Throw out the bones, herbs, bay leaf, and peel.

Return the meat to the pot. Simmer uncovered on the stovetop for 15–20 minutes, until thick enough to coat a spoon. Season with salt and pepper.

Cook the pappardelle in well-salted water until just shy of al dente. Save 1 cup of pasta water. Move the pasta into the ragù with the butter and a splash of pasta water. Toss over heat for 1–2 minutes until glossy.

Finish with grated Parmesan and a spoonful of gremolata.

Make ahead: The ragù tastes better the next day. It keeps 4 days in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer.